Lagane e ceci: ricetta, storia e leggenda di un antichissimo piatto calabrese

In Calabria non è San Giuseppe e non si può festeggiare la festa del Papà se non gustando lagane e ciciari (ceci), un tipo di pasta fatta a mano con acqua e farina e condita con ceci.

Da dire che le lagane (dal greco laganon e dal romano laganum che vuol dire strisce) costituiscono la prima pasta secca della storia, progenitrici delle lasagne.

Già il poeta latino Orazio nelle sue Satire scritte tra il 35 ed il 30 a.C., descriveva una minestra simile a base di ceci, porri e lagane, intendendo chiaramente con quest’ultima parola una pasta sfoglia simile alla nostra attuale pasta fresca.

Naturalmente lagani e ciciari si possono mangiare in qualsiasi momento, ma vogliamo ricordare che la scelta del 19 marzo, giorno di San Giuseppe, deriva sicuramente dai riti pagani di purificazione agraria del 17 marzo, sui quali si innestò dal quindicesimo secolo la celebrazione cristiana di San Giuseppe, padre di Gesù, umile falegname e più volte perseguitato e respinto, eletto protettore degli artigiani e dei poveri.

Il 19 marzo diventò così la giornata dei poveri, in cui le famiglie preparavano da mangiare e invitavano i più derelitti, tradizione che si perpetuò nei secoli per arrivare fino al 1968, quando diventò anche la festa laica del papà.

Ancora adesso in Calabria e in molte regioni del Sud avviene la distribuzione pubblica di cibo o si imbandiscono tavole con pasta e ceci e altri piatti, o più semplicemente si preparano con cura lagane e ciciari per gustarli insieme a parenti e amici in onore di San Giuseppe. La famosa Cicerata di Maida, anche se nel tempo è stata spostata al 2 aprile, deriva da questa bellissima tradizione e viene celebrata dalla comunità intera in festa.

INGREDIENTI
400 g di farina di semola
acqua q.b.
250 g di ceci secchi
200 g di polpa di pomodoro
1 foglia d’alloro
1 spicchio d’aglio
olio
sale
peperoncino in polvere
pepe

PREPARAZIONE
Mettete a bagno i ceci per 12 ore, quindi sgocciolateli e fateli lessare per almeno 2 ore in abbondante acqua fredda con una foglia d’alloro. Mentre i ceci cuociono preparate le lagane, impastando la farina con acqua e un pizzico di sale e stendendo una sfoglia non sottilissima, tagliandola a losanghe larghe 2 o 3 centimetri e lunghe 4 o 5.

In una capace padella scaldate due o tre cucchiai di olio evo con uno spicchio d’aglio schiacciato (che poi eliminerete), aggiungete un pizzico di peperoncino in polvere, la polpa di pomodoro, sale e pepe nero e fate cuocere a fiamma media per 10 minuti. Ora unite i ceci e lasciate insaporire per 10 minuti.

Lessate le lagane in abbondante acqua salata, sgocciolatele al dente, mettetele nella padella del sugo, lasciatele insaporire, regolate di sale e pepe ed eventualmente irrorate con un filo di olio.

Una variante strepitosa del piatto è quella di aggiungere al condimento dei ceci del finocchietto selvatico fresco o, in mancanza, le barbe di finocchi comuni appena scottate. Ed ecco pronti lagane e ceci, sapore di primavera al Sud!
Annamaria Persico

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